Can I plug in the OBD2 port, or pair to the car's bluetooth?
No, you need a special wiring harness. This is because the data we want to see is only available on the CAN bus, which is the car's internal bus, where car components speak to eachother. The OBD2 ports in Model S, 3, X, Y only contain +12v and the car's VIN number. The car's bluetooth is only for voice (speaker phone) and music.
Will there be an IOS version?
Yes! IOS version is out since April 29, 2020. It is still very young as it had to be rebuilt from the ground up to work with IOS. Please bear with us while we add more features.
Google Play: https://support.google.com/googleplay/answer/2479637
With Google Play we can also manually give a refund, if all else failes, and if you send us the Google order number. We will do this for any reason, even buyer's remorse.
Apple App Store: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204084
With App Store we can't refund you manually, but it seems their refund policy is less strict than Google, and will allow refunds for any reason including buyer's remorse.
Is it OK to give you 1 star and an angry review because I didn't read the first line of the app description, and didn't buy a wiring harness?
No, that's not cool. Please see 'refunds' above.
Can I get the IOS version for free when I paid for Android or vice versa?
Unfortunately that is not technically possible. Also, we have a lot of extra costs for each platform, especially Apple, who requires buying a lot of their hardware, App Store annual fees etc, and the IOS app is built from the ground up as a new app. This effort is trickling down to Android which will see a completely renewed app down the line. So we hope the double OS users can be willing to support both our platform efforts, and know that both platforms will benefit from it in the end.
Is there a way to add more sensor signals to this app? I see that a certain signal have been identified, but I don't see them in available sensors?
You can't, but I am open for suggestions, and what's a big time saver for me is if you do a bit of validation first when you find something that you'd like to add:
1. Make a CAN dump when you drive
2. Import that dump into Canbus Analyzer, Savvy-CAN or other canbus software
3. Check that the signals actually work, today, on a current firmware, with our connections (Powertrain bus), and that they seem correct
4. Send me those results, including the exact definitions of the signals. It's very quick for me to add to the next release of the app. You will get your name as a contributor under the Credits section unless you ask to stay anonymous.
What does signal X mean? How accurate is signal Y? Is signal Z calculated in-app?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UBHw2eY3QyJL3vUz0CnTZ7iLlLB-ao5s61hexT0GuHM/edit?usp=sharing&authuser=0 ("Signal details" link in top menu of this page)
In the future we hope to bring some of this info into the app.
Lots of signals including torque, motor power, speed etc are not working
Many parts of the car are not always online, especially the drive units. They only come online and start sending signals when you start the car (press the brake). Please note that currently the app will continue to show the last value if the signals are no longer updating. We will improve on showing this later.
Trips are not working correctly with Model 3 / Model Y, showing wrong average consumption
Related to the point above, Model 3/Y does not report Odometer until you press the brake and the car is ready to drive. This means, if you start a trip one day when the car is idle, and you look at it again 3 weeks later, the Distance will start counting today, but the energy counters has been counting for 3 weeks, and your metrics will be skewed. The solution is to make sure the car is ready to drive when you press Reset trip or start a new trip. We will package this better in future app versions.
I don't like the battery degradation percentage!
Well nobody does. Different apps and people choose different numbers as the 'new' capacity, and people calculating it themselves find random numbers on the internet to compare against. Scan My Tesla uses a newly discovered signal called 'Full pack when new' (only available in Model 3+Y) and compares that to your current 'Nominal full pack'. This is of course open for interpretation and discussion, but I have data from 2 LR Model 3's that I owned personally, that showed 77.4 and 77.3 when they were new, so I don't think 77.8 is a completely unrealistic number. Some people argue that number is just a hard-coded default value before the BMS gets to know the individual battery. That may be true. But which number should we use then?
This topic is still very much debated, and I am still open for input on the matter.
*Update: Battery degradation calculation has been removed from the apps, as it was proven to be incorrect.
Can you tell me something about the energy buffer? When we lose range, is this energy going to the buffer? Can I use this buffer energy, or its lost? If I´m loosing range is degradation?
The buffer is just a theoretical number Tesla has chosen as the 0 mile/0 % point. What is below here can very possibly be used, but when a cell group reaches the low voltage limit the car might shut down suddenly, so be aware of that and watch your cell voltages if you go this low. It is almost impossible to have a 100% balanced battery across the SOC range, so realistically one cell group will reach the low voltage cutoff point before the others, the buffer is probably there to hide this fact from people. For Model 3 the max and min pack voltage is given, for my 2019 LR the LVC seem to be at 2.53V.